Search results for 'Materials for gesso'

Gesso di Bologna is a bright white Calcium Sulphate, or gypsum, from Italy, which can be used as a substitute for whiting in the preparation of gesso. It is ground to a particularly fine powder, which makes it a suitable ground for gilding, as the small size of the particles allows for greater compression when burnishing. Learn More

Clear synthetic varnish with superior clarity. Does not discolour gold and silver leaf. Use as a protective coating over gilded surfaces to prevent tarnishing and for sealing gesso prior to gilding. Learn More

High quality clay bole for water-gilding techniques. Use over traditional chalk gesso ground. Bole needs to be applied with a solution of rabbit skin glue. This Bole is manufactured by Sinopia. The formula was developed by working with master gilders to craft a rich creamy bole that burnishes to a beautiful, highly reflective lustre.

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Refined liquid fish glue for use as a size for gilding on paper. It can also be used as a glue for paper and as a binder in gesso for raised illumination. Seccotine is made from the skin of the Atlantic deep sea cod fish. It remains flexible after drying.

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Soft round domed hog hair. Bound with string instead of metal ferrule (will not rust). Suitable for application of pastes for bookbinding and laying down of gesso. Learn More

Carnauba Wax is the hardest wax commonly used in the production of artists' materials, with a melting point of 83-86°c. It is derived from a tree native to South America, and is available in a natural colour (grey), or a refined colour (pale yellow). Small amounts of carnauba wax are commonly used in both oil painting mediums and encaustic painting, usually in conjunction with beeswax to add toughness, durability and sheen to the paint film. It creates an inflexible surface, so works best on rigid supports such as gesso panels, and it should be noted that it will raise the melting point of encaustic mixtures. It can produce a glossy finish; as such it is used in waxes and polishes for shoes, cars, musical instruments, furniture, and wooden floors, especially when mixed with beeswax and turpentine. Learn More

Patricia Lovett is one of the world’s leading authorities on the techniques and practical processes of making mediæval manuscripts. She lectures and teaches all over the world on calligraphy and illumination, and has written about a dozen books on these subjects, as well as producing a DVD – Illumination – Tools, Materials, Techniques, Projects. Patricia has run calligraphy courses as well as those on traditional manuscript gilding and painting techniques, and was awarded an MBE for her services to heritage crafts and calligraphy. This book takes the beginner and those with more experience through step-by-step processes to produce simple and easy projects using cheap metals and modern adhesives, and also to create mediæval miniatures and illuminated scrolls on vellum (animal skin). Learn More

Isinglass is derived from the dried swim bladders of fish, with Salianski Isinglass being the highest grade available. In the Russian Icon tradition, it commonly provided the glue component in gesso recipes, and was sometimes mixed with pigment to make tempera paints, due to its high binding strength. It can be used to make a pale, clear glue, which is less prone to darkening than other animal glues, and which is particularly flexible, making it a useful material for repairing textiles. Learn More

Carnauba Wax is the hardest wax commonly used in the production of artists' materials, with a melting point of 83-86°c. It is derived from a tree native to South America, and is available in a natural colour (grey), or a refined colour (pale yellow). Small amounts of carnauba wax are commonly used in both oil painting mediums and encaustic painting, usually in conjunction with beeswax to add toughness, durability and sheen to the paint film. It creates an inflexible surface, so works best on rigid supports such as gesso panels, and it should be noted that it will raise the melting point of encaustic mixtures. It can produce a glossy finish; as such it is used in waxes and polishes for shoes, cars, musical instruments, furniture, and wooden floors, especially when mixed with beeswax and turpentine. Learn More

Michael Harding Non-Absorbent Acrylic Primer (NAAP) is a versatile product suitable for application on various surfaces, including linen, wood, MDF, and more. It is designed to create a robust, flexible, permanent, and intensely pigmented ground, making it an excellent choice for both acrylic and oil paints. Important Application Guidelines: Support Selection: NAAP should not be applied over surfaces treated with rabbit skin/hide glue or on unsound, flimsy supports such as cardboard. Opt for stable substrates to ensure the primer’s effectiveness. Not a Gesso: Please note that NAAP is a primer, not a gesso. As such, there is no need for additional gessoes, sizes, or other ancillary products when using NAAP. DIRECTIONS: Coat Application: Apply a minimum of two coats of NAAP to your chosen support, ensuring liberal coverage for optimal results. Dilution for Flow: If you desire increased flow, dilute NAAP with a mixture of 1 part water to 4 parts NAAP. This adjustment allows for customization based on your artistic preferences. Second Coat Application: Apply the second coat once the first coat is touch dry, typically after approximately 1 hour. This step contributes to the creation of a well-prepared painting surface. Additional Considerations: Suitable Supports: Do not use Michael Harding Non-Absorbent Acrylic Primer on flimsy or unsound supports. It is crucial to choose a stable and well-prepared surface for priming to ensure the longevity and integrity of your artwork. Canvas Weave Consideration: Avoid using this primer on canvases with a wide weave. The non-absorbent nature of the primer may not be suitable for canvases with a loose or open structure, compromising its effectiveness. Transparency Check: Before application, inspect your canvas material by holding it up to the light. If you can see light passing through the wefts (threads) of the canvas, it is not recommended to use Michael Harding Non-Absorbent Acrylic Primer. Opt for a more appropriate primer based on the transparency of your canvas. Learn More