Search results for 'method of'

Kölner Instacoll is a two-part system, consisting of a base coat and activator, that can be used on nearly all suitably prepared substrates to create weather-resistant, high gloss interior and exterior gilded surfaces. The Instacoll Tool is a double-ended tool with shaped tips made of elastic rubber, designed for pressing gold and silver transfer leaf into indentations when gilding uneven surfaces. The Instacoll Chiffonnette is an extra soft, lint-free cloth, used for polishing and burnishing surfaces gilded with Instacoll. *PLEASE NOTE - COLOURS OF THESE PRODUCTS MAY VARY SLIGHTLY FROM PRODUCTS PICTURED* Learn More

A soft compound EPDM at 40 shore. Resistant to printers chemicals and not affected by exposure to daylight, this is a long life product. This brayer is designed to give a more compliant coverage than hard rubber material. More forgiving on uneven surfaces, proving to be a favourite with certain printing methods but needing extra care in storage to prevent indentation to its soft surface. Especially developed for relief printing. Learn More

This slow drying viscous tusche has been designed to produce effects similar to soft ground in traditional etching. Using this method soft non-printing drawings may be made and impressions of fabric, leaves, feathers and other collage materials may be taken. The tusche can also be used for a broad range of painted marks and can be drawn into with paint shapers and other tools. The diluted tusche dries to creategranular washes. Dry marks can be re-wet and altered. Learn More

The Hangi-toh is a cutting knife with a bevelled edge. It is used to outline areas to be kept. This is the most useful tool for the Mokuhanga artist. The tool is designed to be held blade down at roughly 90 degree angle with the flat edge of the blade towards line to be kept and the bevelled edge in the area to be carved away. A small amount of pressure is excised by placing thumb over the end of the handle slightly to the left and blade tilted to the right (if you are right handed) so that you may see the blade running down the line as you work, the blade should be guided with the other hand though care is needed not to apply too much pressure. This is the traditional method of holding the tool and, for this reason right and left handed tools are required. (Please note, left handed tools can be ordered by telephone and will take 4-6 weeks to arrive). The blade may be removed and sharpened by slipping off the ferrule. Learn More

Renaissance Materials by Dr. David Cranswick.

A thick glazing medium of the 'Old Masters'. Liquid Glass Mediums facilitate building up layers of transparent glaze. Gloss or Satin.

Contains: Damar resin, linseed oil and beeswax (for Satin medium only)

Learn More

A glass slab with wooden cradle for the grinding of pigments.

The friction created between the sand-blasted surfaces of the glass slab and muller facilitates the thorough mixing of pigment and medium, creating a consistent and strong paint body. This slab can be used to manufacture many types of paint including watercolours, egg tempera and oils.

Mulling is of particular importance when making oil paint; simply mixing pigment and oil together using a palette knife will result in an unstable substance with poor plasticity, which contains a large amount of excess oil and unevenly distributed pigment particles. Thorough mulling in a figure-of-eight motion will enable the pigment to be fully combined into the binder, strengthening the resultant paint film.

PLEASE NOTE: The separate glass slabs are in stock but it is a call to order item due to the fact that we cannot guarantee its safe delivery, however well we package it. Please ring us to discuss your delivery options. In combination with the glass frame, delivery is more secure but we still cannot guarantee a delivery without breakage.

Learn More

These black or white coatings may be painted onto a dry layer of Hard resist so that the drawing made with etching tools is highly visible. The coloured coatings are not acid-resistant and are designed to be washed away with water before the plate is stopped-out or etched. Learn More

Solid artists' quality oil paint sticks. (Ø = 3/4 ; length = 5" ) SENNELIER Extra-Fine Solid Oil Sticks can be used alone or in combination with oil colours in tubes. The oil stick colours can be used for an entire painting. They are applied directly to any traditional oil-painting support, such as canvas, wood panel or fine art paper. They need the same archival priming (acrylic gesso or oil ground) that oil paint requires. Surfaces: Before use, the surface film of the oil stick must be peeled off. It will form again after a few days of non-use, protecting and conserving the colour. The oil sticks must be applied in a thin film application of no more than 1mm thick. Once applied they can be painted over with oil stick or oil paint and if desired be diluted with turpentine. Oil stick Medium, a colourless oil stick, may be used to produce transparent effects and glazes. Once applied, the oil stick surface will dry in 2 to 5 days, depending on the atmospheric conditions Varnishing: If varnishing is desired, you must wait 6 months (as in traditional oil paint) until the colour is completely dry, before giving the painting a final coat of picture varnish. Use a soft brush to varnish so that the oil stick marks are not disturbed. SENNELIER Extra-Fine Solid Oil Stick colours are either opaque (O) or transparent (T) depending on the nature of the pigment in each colour. Oil Sticks do not change during storage and require no special precautions except to be kept away from any source of heat, which could adversely affect the stick. Application Techniques After applying the colour with the point or the edge of the oil stick, colours can be mixed directly on the support using the following methods: • Blending, with brush, finger, or drawing stump. With or without turpentine • Wash-drawing, dilute colours with turpentine or mineral spirit • Retouching, with oil stick, palette knife or brush • Textures, thick application oil stick colour. Retouch with a brush or palette knife •Sgraffito, scratching a layer of fresh paint with a point (brush handle, palette knife, etc.) to reveal the layer below. Sgraffito is related to engraving, and is used not only for revealing the under-layers of paint but also to scratch and clean unsatisfactory parts of the painting •Interior Decoration, on glass, ceramics etc. Use for decorative purposes only Learn More

This resist is painted onto the plate in a thin even layer with a soft flat square-ended brush. When this clear layer is dry it may be coloured or drawn into with etching needles, roulettes and steel wool. The waxy character allows the needle to glide through its surface. After drawing the coloured coating (if used) is removed, the image is stopped out if necessary, then the plate is etched. As the resist is clear the artist can monitor the etching process accurately. Learn More

A drawing tool for transferring scale. Align your desired subject matter in the small end of the divider and transfer the spacing of the larger end to your drawing surface. Learn More

By Peter & Ann Mactaggart. This book is an attempt to set down detailed descriptions and explanations of the traditional, professional methods of both oil and water gilding in a way that can be followed by another craftsman. It does not discuss some of the methods that have been suggested recently for amateur use. (74 pages) Learn More

Linseed Oil is derived from flax seeds, and appears on our shelves in many guises: Cold Pressed, Refined, Stand Oil, and as a key ingredient in many mediums. It has been appreciated for its drying properties since the Medieval period, and has become the most popular oil used in painting today due to the strong, flexible and glossy film that it creates. Cold Pressed Linseed Oil is ideal for the grinding of pigment to make oil paints. The process of producing Cold Pressed Linseed Oil results in a lower yield, but the resultant oil is of a superior quality to oil that has been extracted by other methods, creating a paint film that is more resistant to embrittlement on aging. Its yellow colour is caused by the high concentration of linolenic acid, the presence of which provides durability to the paint film. The amount of oil that each pigment requires can vary enormously. Alizarin Crimson, for example, requires a high percentage of oil compared to most other colours. We would always recommend mulling the pigment and oil together thoroughly to create a "short" or buttery paste, with evenly dispersed, well-coated pigment particles. This process contributes to the strength and flexibility of the paint film, and prevents the inclusion of excess oil. Origin: USA Learn More

The Lascaux Tusches are a unique range of innovative ready-to-use water-soluble painting materials specially designed for creating positives for light-sensitive printmaking processes. The positives can be used with water-based screenprinting, acrylic-resist etching, solar plate printing and traditional printmaking methods. The Lascaux Lift solution can be used in conjunction with Lascaux Tusche spray for making positives or as a lift in the acrylic-resist etching system. Learn More

By Pip Seymour. The Artist’s Handbook provides artists with in-depth, practical information on the materials, equipment and skills necessary for all areas of artistic practice. Topics covered include advice on how to select appropriate art materials, including paints, brushes, canvases and drawing materials; techniques for making your own paints, glue, varnishes and paper; advice on how to achieve the best results from both manufactured and hand-made materials; the best methods of storing and preserving finished artworks, and health and safety precautions. (520 pages) Learn More

Shellac is a natural resin that is deposited by the female lac insect on the branches of trees in India and Thailand. It is soluble with alcohol, but not with mineral spirits or turpentine. It forms a tough yet flexible film, with many applications. It is suitable as a top coat for gilding when applied thinly, a sealant for porous surfaces, an isolating layer for tempera paintings, a base for pigmented inks, a protective layer for collograph plates, and a warm varnish for wooden floors and furniture. As it is prone to darkening with age, it is not recommended as a varnish for oils, and its solubility can reduce over time. There are various grades of shellac. When mixed with alcohol, it may initially form a cloudy mixture, due to traces of wax in the shellac, but this should become clear once it has dried. The highest grades of shellac are Clear Dewaxed Shellac, which has been de-coloured using the carbon filtering method, Lemon Shellac, and Orange Shellac, which are pale in colour. Button Shellac is less refined and therefore produces a reddish varnish. It was, in fact, widely used as a red dye before synthetic dyes became available. Learn More

Shellac is a natural resin that is deposited by the female lac insect on the branches of trees in India and Thailand. It is soluble with alcohol, but not with mineral spirits or turpentine. It forms a tough yet flexible film, with many applications. It is suitable as a top coat for gilding when applied thinly, a sealant for porous surfaces, an isolating layer for tempera paintings, a base for pigmented inks, a protective layer for collograph plates, and a warm varnish for wooden floors and furniture. As it is prone to darkening with age, it is not recommended as a varnish for oils, and its solubility can reduce over time. There are various grades of shellac. When mixed with alcohol, it may initially form a cloudy mixture, due to traces of wax in the shellac, but this should become clear once it has dried. The highest grades of shellac are Clear Dewaxed Shellac, which has been de-coloured using the carbon filtering method, Lemon Shellac, and Orange Shellac, which are pale in colour. Button Shellac is less refined and therefore produces a reddish varnish. It was, in fact, widely used as a red dye before synthetic dyes became available. Learn More

Poppy Oil is a slightly later addition to the artist's cabinet than Linseed Oil and Walnut Oil. It is generally used as a binder for pale colours, where the warmth of Linseed Oil is not desired. It provides a matte finish and dries very slowly, so we would not advise using it in conjunction with slow-drying pigments or in underpaintings. A paint film produced by Poppy Oil is weaker and softer than that created by Linseed Oil. This is because it contains a smaller percentage of linolenic acid than Linseed Oil; this substance imparts both strength and yellowness to an oil.  

Although some of these properties can be perceived as drawbacks, paints made with Poppy Oil generally obtain a "short" or buttery texture without the addition of waxes or other additives, which can be an advantage for certain colours that produce poor consistencies in Linseed oil alone. Sometimes, the addition of a small quantity of Poppy Oil when grinding a tricky or "stringy" pigment in Cold Pressed Linseed Oil can introduce some of benefits of Poppy Oil, without transmitting its negative characteristics.

Paints made with Poppy Oil are particularly suited to "alla prima" working methods, where paint is applied spontaneously. When working in successive layers, Poppy Oil would only be appropriate for the final stages of a painting.

Learn More

Hand-primed pure Belgian linen. Oil or Acrylic (universally) primed. Learn More

Shellac is a natural resin that is deposited by the female lac insect on the branches of trees in India and Thailand. It is soluble with alcohol, but not with mineral spirits or turpentine. It forms a tough yet flexible film, with many applications. It is suitable as a top coat for gilding when applied thinly, a sealant for porous surfaces, an isolating layer for tempera paintings, a base for pigmented inks, a protective layer for collograph plates, and a warm varnish for wooden floors and furniture. As it is prone to darkening with age, it is not recommended as a varnish for oils, and its solubility can reduce over time. There are various grades of shellac. When mixed with alcohol, it may initially form a cloudy mixture, due to traces of wax in the shellac, but this should become clear once it has dried. The highest grades of shellac are Clear Dewaxed Shellac, which has been de-coloured using the carbon filtering method, Lemon Shellac, and Orange Shellac, which are pale in colour. Button Shellac is less refined and therefore produces a reddish varnish. It was, in fact, widely used as a red dye before synthetic dyes became available. Learn More

Shellac is a natural resin that is deposited by the female lac insect on the branches of trees in India and Thailand. It is soluble with alcohol, but not with mineral spirits or turpentine. It forms a tough yet flexible film, with many applications. It is suitable as a top coat for gilding when applied thinly, a sealant for porous surfaces, an isolating layer for tempera paintings, a base for pigmented inks, a protective layer for collograph plates, and a warm varnish for wooden floors and furniture. As it is prone to darkening with age, it is not recommended as a varnish for oils, and its solubility can reduce over time. There are various grades of shellac. When mixed with alcohol, it may initially form a cloudy mixture, due to traces of wax in the shellac, but this should become clear once it has dried. The highest grades of shellac are Clear Dewaxed Shellac, which has been de-coloured using the carbon filtering method, Lemon Shellac, and Orange Shellac, which are pale in colour. Button Shellac is less refined and therefore produces a reddish varnish. It was, in fact, widely used as a red dye before synthetic dyes became available. Learn More